October 2004 – air intake, wiring diet, engine wiring

I added a spacer to the air intake because the cobra value covers were a little taller than the stock value covers.2004.10.a.intakeSpacerI then  installed the fuel injectors and  the injector wiring harness.  Hint:  Do this before mounting the  air intake or you will have to remove the air intake to get the wiring on the fuel injectors.  Voice of experience speaking.

The air intake is installed.  You can also see that I cut the A/C bracket to remove all the unwanted metal that was not functional.2004.10.b.airIntakeI was now able to run my throttle cable. It is a tight fit but it does fit.




I asked the folks on the forum if this was the right place for the throttle connection.  It was.2004.10.c.throttle

Yahoo, my seats and side pipes have arrived!!

The side pipes are the newer 4 port pipes with is good.  But this means I need a new Catalytic converter and mounting hardware for the newer pipes.

Hours spent on the build: 73 hours

I asked a for some feedback on the forum about  the difficulty of removing unneeded wires from the donor wiring harness. Several folks responded and said it took a long time but they thought it was worth it. So I thought I would give it a try. They call it the wire diet.2004.10.d.donorDashWiring Based on their feedback I bought an Electric and Vacuum Trouble Shooting Manual on the web for about 35 bucks.  It was worth every penny. Another really good suggestion was to put the harness on a large board.  I used screws and tie wraps to keep the wiring in place as I removed wires.

Speed control, power windows, wiper controls, courtesy lights, rear window defroster, seat belt  chimes, radio, A/C and heater wiring were all removed.  It is a very slow process.2004.10.e.donorDashWiring2I started by labeling connectors and everything I could identify.  I never new there were so many relays and solenoids in a car.


When all was re-taped it looked a whole lot smaller and why not.  I probably removed 10 pounds of wiring and controls. What I did not show here was that I repeated this process for the wiring harness that goes from the computer to the engine compartment. I must admit I did not remove as much from that harness.2004.10.f.finishedDashWiringHint: I am finding that I am having to untape and re-wrap some wiring because I did not leave enough length in some of the wiring branches. BUT the question is, did I remove too much?  Will the car start?  Stay tuned…. I don’t know the answer yet.

It took about 21 hours for the wire diet. 10 pounds in 21 hours…. now that is a diet!

Hours spent on the build: 95 hours

Here the dash wiring harness is put in place and I started to line up wiring harness connectors. This is where I leaned some of my wiring branches were not long enough.2004.10.g.harnessInstallI was also able to remove more wiring that came from the rear wiring harness. Wires to the doors, and seats for example.  No need for the wiring to the seat lumbar support. That is not the final  position of the fuse box.

I also pulled out the donor ignition key switch switch will ge mounted up under the dash. It was definitely easy to work with this thinner wiring harness.

If you followed my thread on the forum you heard I lost my donor headers.  I did pick some used ones on the web but after seeing them I decided to go with a set of new headers.2004.10.h.headerInstallThe passenger side was very close to the engine mount.  So close that I actually took a grinder to the engine mount and removed a little to give the headers about an eight of an inch clearance.

Clearance on the drivers side was not a problem.2004.10.i.headersDriverside







Hours spent on the build: 99 hours

I mounted the computer up on the top of the passenger foot box with the terminal out.  Just in case I need to trace any wires.2004.10.j.computerI still have some ground wires to secure seen hanging in the picture.




I mounted the high voltage coil  on the 3/4 tubing just as suggested in the installation manual. I ending up making a simple bracket on the back side to help secure it to the frame.2004.10.k.hvcoilYou can see some of the engine compartment wiring and some of the wiring coming from the headlight harness.  Oh, did I mention I installed the headlight harness?  That was pretty simple.

Here is the location of the starter relay. The installation manual was not real clear on a location.  I picked a location that seemed to work well for the location of my wires.2004.10.l.starterRelayI am going to  wait until the engine starts before I go securing all the wires with tie wraps..




Hours spent on the build: 103 hours

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pearls of humor, wisdom, and crazy ideas