Next was installing the steering column. A contact I met through the FFR forum, offered to weld my tilt steering column and he did a great job. Thanks Bill.Here is the lower portion that is connected to the steering rack.
The instruction manual was not kidding when it said it was a tight fit. The connection of the steering column to the upper universal joint had to be hammered into the shaft. I hope I don’t ever have to remove it.
I ended up adding washers to the lower column bearing (the lower pillow block) so that the steering column lined up better.Apparently the column has to come out to ease the installation of the engine so right now it is in place but not tightened into place.
Here is a shot of the upper steering bearing (pillow block). Once the steering wheel was installed I was able to turn the tires to extreme right and left and found I had to bend the disk brake lines so they did not rub the tires.Now with a steering wheel I can push the car down a hill and steer it. Oppss forgot. I better add some brakes first.
Hours spent on the build: 38 hours
The front brake lines presented a bit of a obstacle but nothing serious. First I found I had to get some brake adapter fittings to make the connection from the flex lines coming from the calipers to the brake line provided with the kit. Also found out as many others on the forum that the 60 inch brake line is not long enough to run across the X member as the instruction manual mentions. Note: had to buy a new tool. A brake line bender. I did not get an expensive one. Guys on the forum say they have success using sockets and PVC pipe to make bends without crimps.
From what I found on the FFR forum I routed the front brake line along the 4 inch tube and the 60 inch line was long enough to go this route. Oh, yea, I read a suggestion to use an old coat hanger to figure out the bends you need to make. If you screw up you can always use your brake lines to hang up your shirts.
I did not like the way the distribution block was “floating” below the master cylinder so I made a simple bracket that I riveted to the frame and then was able to bolt the distribution block to that bracket with the existing stud on the distribution block. That bracket is behind the distribution block in this picture. I also needed to purchase another brake line adapter that connected the front right caliper to the distribution block. See it there in the picture?
I also spent some more time wet sanding the Roaster’s body (sorry, no exciting pictures yet). It has been raining some much here I probably should be doing the sanding in the rain.
Hours spent on the build: 41 hours
The rear brake line needed to be connected to a L shaped bracket according to the instruction manual. But I did not have one. Forgot to take it off the donor. Drats! So I bought this one from Breezeautmotive.com
Note: had to buy a new tool. A brake line bender. I did not get an expensive one. Guys on the forum say they have success using sockets and PVC pipe to make bends without crimps.
This shot shows how the rear brake line runs down to the 4 tubular pipe portion of the frame. It is well clear of the rear end control arms even though it looks close in the picture.I used the clamps provided to hold the lines but never did find the screws the instruction manual said to use. So I picked up a dozen or so zinc plated 10 x 1/2 hex washer head screws.
Here is a shot under the car showing how the rear brake line was routed along the 4 inch tube of the frame. The rear line was made up of a 60 inch and the 51 inch brake lines. The instruction manual did not spell that out. I suppose it would have been obvious but I consulted the FFR forum to be sure.
I found Breezeautomotive.com offers a rear disk brake kit to replace the drum brakes. I am really tempted to spring for rear disk brakes. The jury is still out on that.
Hours spent on the build: 44 hours